What Can We Expect From The Dovpo Clutch X18 by Signature Mods?

First things first! This is a dual battery mechanical mod, as such there is no regulation and you are getting the full power of your batteries supplied directly to your atomiser.

If you don’t understand Ohm’s law, battery safety, and how to build to your mod, you probably shouldn’t be having a go until you’ve given yourself a good grounding! (If you’ll pardon the pun)

That out of the way, the Dovpo Clutch X18 is a bit of an oddity, as the batteries are arranged in parallel. This compares to the far more common series mods, where batteries can be stacked one on top of another, to double the power.

The difference is that with a parallel mod, the amount of voltage being supplied to your atomiser remains the same (so, 4.2V from freshly charged batteries). But the load in amps is spread over the two batteries, and the capacity or how long you can vape for, is doubled.

So no, you will not get double the amount of “power” with a parallel mod, but you will be able to vape for longer, and it will perform at its peak power for longer because of this.

This was sent over by Dovpo for review (thank you), as usual, I am not swayed by freebies and I shall report back honestly with what I find.

On to the review!

In The Box

• Clutch X18 dual mech mod
• 2x Thicker doors
• 5x Fuse
• Flathead screwdriver
• Extra screws

Specs

• Dimensions – 81.4 x 50.99 x 25 or 28mm depending on doors used
• Power Output – Unregulated (37a fuse)
• Battery – 2x 18650 in Parallel (not supplied)
• Lock – Mechanical locking switch

Design and Build Quality

The Clutch X18 comes in a choice of 6 colour ways at launch, Red, Blue, Green, Black and Gunmetal Grey.

Although I’m sure there will be many interesting variations on these in the future, as there have been with the original clutch.

Body

The body is machined from a solid billet of aluminium, and as such it feel very rigid whilst still being quite lightweight. It’s then bead blasted and anodised, giving it a very silky premium feel.

As mentioned previously, this is a mechanical mod. As such it is really important that you know what you’re doing with it, and you have a good grasp of ohms law and the safety concepts around battery safety.

Because of this, it’s really good to see a big battery warning information sheet as the first thing when you open the box. Even more than that, there is a sticker covering the mod which you have to remove before you can use it.

You should always use married batteries in a mod like this, ie. ones that have always been charged and discharged together.

Controls/Switches

The fire button is a lovely metal square, with some texture to the front of it. Signature Mods know that this is one area that people often like to customise, so I’m happy to say that it is fully compatible with the Clutch 21700 buttons.

It’s got a really positive throw to it, and I love how solid it feels.

Other than the fire button, the only other control you have on the device is the little safety lock switch on the rear of the device (the other side from the one you put your batteries in).

Safety Features

This mechanical switch just rotates a little blocker, that when locked will prevent the switch from depressing and making contact.

It’s a relatively simple design, but it’s been well thought out and acts exactly as you would want it to. There’s no chance of it getting moved accidentally, and it gives a lot of reassurance.

Speaking of reassurance, one of the new things from the original clutch is the introduction of a fuse in the base.

This little piece of metal is secured by 4 torx screws, and has a 37a limit. Basically if you try to push more than 37a through it the metal will break in the middle and cut the connection.

Please Note: This fuse is only designed to stop you placing the batteries the wrong way up. If you accidentally install them in series (one up, one down) it will break the fuse. If you were to place a super low resistance build in there or you get a short in your atomiser, it will not protect you.

This is a physical reverse polarity protection (something I’ve never seen before in a mech mod). It is not a safety feature to protect against an atomiser short.

This is a great way of giving you a little extra safety. If you want, Signature Tips will be selling a solid metal bridge to remove this safety feature, but honestly I’m not sure why you would want to.

The only criticism I have of this is that although they give you a bag of 5 extra fuses, in case you are unlucky enough to blow one, they don’t provide you with a tool to unscrew them and replace them.

So bring your own screwdriver!

Base

Looking at the base of the mod, you can see all the expected regulatory marks, as well as the logos of those responsible for its creation. Signature Tips, Mike Vapes and Dovpo.

The other thing that should be obvious is the two flat headed screws. These are your battery contacts, and you screw them down to make contact with the batteries.

I was slightly worried by this at the beginning, as once you screw them down, the batteries can be held in place quite firmly (however don’t over tighten, as you don’t want to damage your batteries!).

In the event of something going wrong, the first thing to do is always to get your batteries out the mod quickly, so I was worried this wouldn’t be easy.

However, because you can take the door of the back of the mod as well, you can push the batteries out from this side.

As a quick tip, always screw down your atomiser before inserting the batteries and screwing down the negative screws.

Doors

Speaking of the doors, you get two sets in the box. This is such a simple thing for them to have done, but it’s a really welcome touch. They attach onto the body of the mod with 6 magnets each, and once they are in place there’s absolutely no movement from them.

The standard doors that come on the mod allow for up to a 25mm atomiser without overhand.

However, swap these out for the thicker doors and you can now go up to a 28mm.

You’ll also notice how the rear doors have a nice big polarity indication on them. Both batteries go positive side up.

Taking the doors off the mod you can see straight through to the other side. There is a 3d printed battery self that fits inside with your contacts. If you ever need to take this out, then you just need to screw the battery screws all the way in.

Lift the positive 510 connector away from the nice and chunky PEEK insulator, and slide it out. Your switch will come out at the same time.

How Does the Dovpo Clutch X18 Perform?

I’ve had the Dovpo Clutch X18 in for review for a few weeks now, and part of the reason it has taken me a long time to getting this written review up, is that I’ve been desperately searching for things that are wrong with it!

As a reviewer, I like to be able to tell you the good and the bad of a product, so you can make an informed decision.

But honestly I’ve struggled to find anything to complain about it.

In terms of power? It’s a mech, and hits like you would expect. If there is any voltage drop then it’s pretty minimal and certainly beyond my skill to notice.

But more than that, because of the parallel configuration, it continues to provide you with that “freshly charged battery” feeling, for a lot longer than you would get were it a single battery.

The fire button is a joy, and (when there were no batteries in it!) I would find myself just absent mind-idly pressing it as I enjoyed the feeling so much.

I don’t own a single battery Clutch, but I have borrowed one on occasion. And my only complaint there was that it didn’t feel big enough. Because the X18 is not using dual batteries, it fit into the hand so much better, and the knuckle-duster profile it very comfortable.

Although it looks like it’s quite a “square” shape at the back, the corners are all nice rounded, so it’s never uncomfortable to hold.

• Hits like a freight train
• Parallel batteries means vaping for longer
• Mechanical lock works perfectly
• Fuse for a little extra safety
• Changeable doors depending on size of atomiser

Cons

• No torx screwdriver to replace the fuses

Final Review Verdict

So, that was the Dovpo Clutch X18 by Signature Mods and Mike Vapes.

I use mechs now and again, but I’m not a massive mech user, partly because I get irritated that the performance starts dropping almost as soon as you start using one. As the battery discharges, you get less and less power.

Having two batteries in parallel helps to make this less apparent, as you’re now draining the power from two batteries at the same time.

So with that irritation mitigated, I find I can really enjoy using a mech. There’s something really pleasing about the simplicity of it.

The fit and finish of the Clutch X18 is really good, the anodising feels quality, and the fact it was machined out of a solid billet of aluminium means there’s no seams where things are joined.

On the whole, it’s an absolutely cracking mod and a worthy successor to the Clutch.

Have you used the Dovpo Clutch X18? Leave a comment below and let us know what you thought!

The post Signature Mods / Dovpo Clutch X18 Review – A Mike Vapes Collaboration appeared first on Ecigclick.

Now when I first received this I was a little confused, I reviewed a pre-production version of the Hellvape Trishul V2 Mech mod a few months back.

So I thought that maybe they’d changed their mind, and instead of producing a hybrid, they decided to put some electrickery into it.

But no, they released the Trishul V2 Mech and now the Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech!

Seems a slightly odd choice to use the same name, especially as there was never a Trishul V1 Semi-Mech, but there you go.

What Can We Expect From The Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod by Hellvape?

Now before I start getting into the review, I do have to take slight issue with the term “semi-mech”.

A mech by it’s nature connects the battery directly to your atomiser, there are no electronic safety features, and for this reason you need to understand what your dealing with in terms of Ohm’s Law and Battery Safety.

So called “semi-mechs” are more like an electronically controlled mod set to bypass mode.

It gives you the unregulated battery power, but there are safety protections built in. I’ll cover what protections this one has, when I take a look at the chip.

Although this is a “semi-mech” it does have an adapter to use it as a full mech.

However if you use it like this, you should treat it as a hybrid mech, even though the positive pin of your atomiser isn’t contacting the top of your battery.

So always make sure your atomiser is hybrid safe and the positive pin protrudes.

This was sent over directly from Hellvape for the purpose of review (thank you) as usual, this does not affect my scores, and I will report back honestly with what I find.

On to the review!

Inside the Box

• Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod
• HellChip (preinstalled)
• Mech Adapter
• 18650 Adapter
• Spares Bag
• Manual
• Warning Card

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod Specs

• Dimensions – 27×99.9mm
• Weight – 168g
• Battery – Single 2×700 or 18650 (not supplied)

Design and Build Quality

This is a hefty little tube, made of either brass or copper.

The Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech mod comes in copper and also in ceracoat black.

All the threading is super smooth on it, and it has a comfortable hourglass shape to make it easy to hold.

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod Body

Starting at the top of the Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech, you’ve got a ridged section that has the look of a heatsink to it, and that flows down into an hourglass shape.

At the base of the main tube you have the Trishul logo engraved. It’s deeply engraved and feels very nicely finished.

There are three main sections to the mod, the top cap, the main body, and the switch assembly at the bottom.

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod Top Cap

Looking at the top cap we find the first major difference to the Trishul mech.

Whereas the mech has a hybrid connection, you can see that there’s a contact inside the 510 screw here.

Otherwise it’s fairly similar, 3 battery vent holes, and some laser engraving with regulatory marks and the name of the mod.

Also this top cap can be unscrewed, unlike on the hybrid.

The mod comes with it’s chip pre-installed in the top cap. To remove it you need to unscrew the top cap, and then push the 510 connector down to release the chip.

This is not an easy job, as the chip is very tightly installed!

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod Chip

In fact you can see how I scratched up the contact as I was trying to push it down!

The reason for this is that the the metal around the edge of the chip has to make a good contact with the tube for it to work properly.

My advice is to use something with a flat end (not a screwdriver!) that is as close to the size of the 510 hole as you can get.

A large Allen key or similar seemed to work OK for me.

If you do only have something that’s much smaller, start at one side of the connector, and slowly push down, working your way around the outside to encourage it to come loose.

The chip is a relatively simple affair in terms of what it does.

It has 3 major protections

• Short Circuit Protection – Will not fire below 0.1Ω
• Over discharge protection – Will not fire when battery is below 3.2V
• 10 second cutoff – Will stop firing after 10 seconds continuous

Other than that, you are getting whatever the current voltage of the battery is.

Remember that when you’re using the chip, you always have to have your the positive on your battery at the top.

In fact on the underside of the chip there’s a big “+” in red to remind you.

A slight downside, is that the chip covers up your venting holes at the top.

Since batteries vent from the positive end, it means that if anything does happen, all the gas and pressure will need to go around the outside of your battery and down out the switch.

Hopefully with the added protections, that shouldn’t be an issue unless you are very unlucky.

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod – Mech Mode

Now if you want to switch it over to a full mech, Hellvape has you covered.

In the box is another little plastic disc with contacts.

This is designed to take up the space that the chip would normally take up.

Unlike the chip, there are venting holes in the battery, and you can see it’s held in place by an o-ring around the outside as the connection.

One thing to be aware of is that although you’re not making direct contact with the battery, it should still be considered a hybrid connection using this adapter.

So make sure that your the positive pin on your atomiser is protruding and hybrid safe.

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod – Switch

I wrote a lot about the switch in my review of it’s hybrid brother.

As it is essentially the same switch, I’m not going to go into too much detail.

But you can check out what I thought of the original by clicking here.

The switch itself is constant contact.

When you press the switch, it forces the two attracting magnets apart (not together, like you get in other magnetic switches) and it completes the circuit.

There’s also a canted coil spring in the bottom of the switch assembly to improve conductivity.

One thing to be aware of, is that when you take bottom bit of the switch out (that you press in) it’s important to line it up with the two grooves when you’re putting it back together. Otherwise when you reassemble the switch it fill fire continuously.

Just give it a quick press once you’ve reassembled your switch, and you’ll instantly feel if it’s not depressing.

Happily when I took this switch apart, all of the contact surfaces had beautiful mirror finish on them.

Differences Between the Trishul Mech and Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod

Obviously one of them is a hybrid and one has a chip (or can be converted to a mech).

Other than that they are remarkably similar.

The semi mech is just a little bit taller than the mech, to account for the space taken up by chip, but otherwise they share the same switch and basic design.

Obviously you can see that the brass on my mech has started to build up a bit of a patina, I decided to leave that as it was rather than polish it back up, so you can get an idea of how this will wear in.

One other slight difference, is that the original had a plastic liner to the tube.

I quite liked this as although you should always inspect your batteries before use, if you did use one that had a nick in the wrapping, it would probably be OK.

For this reason battery safety is even more important on the semi mech, especially if you are using it in fully mechanical mode.

How Does the HellVape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Perform?

Realistically there’s only a few things that determine whether a mech is any good.

How hard it hits, how comfortable it is to use, and what the switch feels like.

Does it hit hard?

I’m in the unusual position of having both the hybrid version of Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech, as well as the semi mech that I have in for review, so I’ve been able to do some A/B testing.

Without any comparison, the semi mech feels like it’s firing well. As though I’m getting all the power that the battery has stored.

It’s only when I put them side by side using the same RDA, same build, two of the same freshly charged batteries that I was able to notice a difference.

Adding a chip into the equation definitely does have an impact on the power that you get out of it.

It’s not a massive difference, but it is noticeable. Of course with a mech mod, the top power you can get from it will start decreasing rapidly anyway as your battery drops, so it’s no big complaint.

Also, it’s not a big enough difference that I would have been able to notice unless I was directly comparing this against a mod with no protection.

In terms of firing, I’m pleased to say that the chip introduced absolutely no noticeable lag at all.

And if you switch the semi-mech over to fully mechanical, I couldn’t tell them apart, even with the extra threading of the top cap, and point of contact between your battery and your atomiser.

How comfortable is it?

I said it in my first review, and I’ll say it again now.

The hourglass shaped of the Trishul is definitely my preference when it comes to mech mods. It gives a lovely waist that sits in the crook of your thumb and fore finger.

Do you like clicky switches?

This is going to be the one that divides some people. I love a clicky switch. A reassuring snap when engaged, is definitely my preference.

The way the switch is set up with two attracting magnets that you force apart, is definitely on the snappy side of things. It’s got a relatively short throw, and you need to put some pressure into it.

But there’s absolutely no mistaking when you make connection. Unlikely on some spring switches, or magnetic switches that work on repulsion, there’s no way to feather it between just about making connection and not.

Honestly, Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech switch is a joy to use!

Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod – Anything I would change?

About the only thing I’m not keen on is how the adapters fit into the top cap.

It is a royal p.i.t.a to take out the chip.

Also there’s no way to use it without the spacer, so make sure you put the adapter somewhere safe it you want to use it as a mech in the future (or the chip dies!).

Pros

• Feels like a mech
• Great build quality
• Switch with a snap!

Cons

• Side by side, it doesn’t hit as hard as a proper mech
• No internal insulation
• Limited venting when used as a semi-mech

Final Review Verdict

So that was the Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech.

I have to say I’ve been thoroughly enjoying my time with this one.

I tend not to use mechs as daily drivers, I had enough shorts on regulated mods when I was learning to put me off the idea of a mech, where a short is potentially much worse.

I use them, and I test them. But they tend to be stay at home devices where I can keep an eye on things.

With the protections that Hellvape put into this, I’m far happier taking it out and about with me and using it “just like a normal mod”. No, it doesn’t hit quite has hard as a mech, but it’s not a big difference so to my mind it’s not much of a trade off.

It’s also the most “mech” like of these protected devices that I’ve used. So if you’ve wanted something that looks like a mech, feels like a mech, but has some protection it’s hard not to recommend it.

I’m sure some people won’t like the switch, it’s a bit marmite. Personally, I think this is one of the best bits, it’s the reason I loved the original mech, and the reason I like the semi-mech just as much!

Is this a mod you’re using or likely to buy?

Let me know your thoughts and opinions in the comments below…

The post Hellvape Trishul V2 Semi-Mech Mod Review – Mech Styling With Protection! appeared first on Ecigclick.

Hellvape is a name you don’t tend to associate with mods, they are probably best known for the Dead Rabbit series of RDAs and RTAs.

They’ve also come out with a range of other atomizers, including the Fat Rabbit stock coil tank, the MD MTL RTA with some interesting airflow disks, and the Destiny RTA.

The last mod that I’m aware they made was the original Trishul near the beginning of 2017, which they then made some minor updates to during it’s time, at the time, it was well received.

What Can We Expect From The Hellvape Trishul V2?

First and foremost I should stress that this is a hybrid mech mod. For that reason I can only recommend it to vapers that understand Ohms Law, and are well versed in battery safety.

Also, this is a pre-production unit that I have been sent by Hellvape, so imagine a huge asterisk over any negative points I make, as things may change between now and the retail release.

Seeing as it’s not officially out yet, there’s also no easy spec sheet to get all of the information from, so I’ve had the calipers out for all of my measurements.

This was sent over for the purpose of review directly from Hellvape, thank you. As always, I will report back honestly on what I find, and I am not influenced by freebies.

Inside The Box

• Trisul V2 Mech Mod
• 18650 Adapter (inside the mod)
• Spares bag including magnets and washers
• Plastic Key
• Safety Leaflet
• Manual

Specs

• Dimensions – 27mm (26mm at the top cap) x 94.9mm
• Weight – 168g
• Power Output – Direct Battery Output
• Connection – Hybrid Connection
• Switch – Constant Contact, Magnetic
• Battery – 2X700 or 18650 with adapter

Design and Build Quality

As this is pre-release, I’m unsure if there are going to be any additional colours, and I received mine in plain brass. Though I believe it may have a clear top coat, as I have used it for a couple of weeks now and not noticed much patina developing.

The original Trishul came in black as well, so I would not be surprised to see this as an option when it launches.

Update – Colourways

Now the mod is closer to release, the final colourways have been revealed as Copper Black, Copper and Brass.

Hellvape Trishul V2 510 Connection

As mentioned, this is a hybrid mod.

So whereas on most mods you would see a positive pin in the centre of your 510, on a hybrid you just have a hole, so that the positive pin of your atomizer makes direct contact with the positive end of the battery.

The top cap measures 26mm across, but a 25mm tank will also look spot on due to the slight bevel at the top.

I wasn’t sure if Trishul meant anything, but I’m guessing there might be something about it having tri in the name maybe?

A quick Google tells me it’s a divine symbol shaped like a trident in Hinduism – so I wasn’t far off!

On the top plate you have three battery venting holes and cut outs, with your two regulatory marks, and the name of the mod arranged between them.

The cut outs are important, in terms of venting, because if a battery vents it’ss from the positive end. Obviously if your tank is screwed down tightly on to the top of the mod and covers the venting holes then the gases have nowhere to escape to.

So the cutouts solve this problem in a worst case scenario, and allow the gases to vent out from underneath any attached atomizer.

Space for your battery to vent is incredibly important, especially on a mech mod.

The top cap isn’t as well finished as the rest of the mod, but being a pre-production unit, I am not going to knock any points off for finishing concerns, though I will point out where I find them.

Hellvape Trishul V2 Tube

First things first, inside the tube you will find your spares and the 18650 adapter to use if you don’t have a 21700. I tested this just to make sure there were no nasty surprises, and it works as you would expect it to.

The tube has a series of ridges near the top, they have the appearance of a heatsink, but I think this is more aesthetic as I don’t think they will do much to reduce heat as they don’t increase the surface area dramatically.

Below this section, the tube has a slight hourglass shape to it. It makes it very comfortable in the hand, and subconsciously lets you know how far up (or down) you’re holding it.

On the lower section of the hourglass, you have what I presume is the Trishul logo moulded into the metal. A stylized “T” with 3 vertical lines in a circle.

Looking inside the tube you can see there is a plastic insulator running down the length of it.

This is a nice touch, and an improvement over the original Trishul. It means that if your battery wrap has a tiny tear that you haven’t noticed, the battery won’t be in contact with metal.

However this is no excuse to not check your batteries! Any tears or nicks in the wrap, and you should stop using it until you get a chance to re-wrap it.

You can also see in my photo that the finish on the base of the tube is not perfect, and there were black marks both in the thread and on the base.

However I have to reiterate that this is a pre-production model, so I’m not going to be knocking off any points for that.

The threading itself however is super smooth, with no squeaking or grinding. So after a quick clean, it was looking as good as it felt!

Hellvape Trishul V2 Switch

Now this is always the bit that people are most interested in when it comes to mech mods! And with good reason, as it is the only moving part and typically where any innovation occurs.

The base of the switch as the Hellvape logo, and like the top cap, is not quite as mirror finished as the rest of the mod. Hopefully they will improve the finishing on the final release. You have three holes in the base, continuing the Tri design from earlier.

It’s a constant contact, magnetic switch, so the plate of the switch is always making contact with the bottom of your battery.

I tend to prefer these, as it means that any arcing, where the electricity jumps between surfaces, is going to be confined to the switch assembly itself.

As you can see you have a nice wide copper contact at the top of the switch. I have photographed it as I received it, and I feel that the finish wasn’t quite up to scratch. I would recommend giving this a polish up before using it.

Under and around the contact, there’s a rubber insulator. This is what is creating the gap between the top section of the switch, and the bottom section.

It’s nice and thick rubber, and the top contact is held in place by a little lip that runs around the inside.

Having said that, this is the one area of the switch that I could see potentially failing over time as the rubber degrades.

So I would definitely keep an eye on it, and if you get any tears in it, swap it out for the included spare.

Underneath the rubber section is the other solid copper contact plate.

In my photo I have inverted it, as there was no way to get it to stand on end.

This screws down into the base of the switch, passing through a pair of very strong neodymium magnets.

The only other piece is a small washer, that sits underneath the upper magnet.

These magnets are separated by the housing of the switch, so that when you push the button in, it forces the magnets apart, raises the copper contact, and completes the circuit by making contact with the the other copper contact that is touching your battery.

Hellvape Trishul V2 – Taking it Apart

NB If you are going to remove the magnets from the switch, make sure you don’t have your phone, credit cards, or anything else that can be harmed by magnets nearby. These are strong!

• Pull the top copper contact off the rubber insulator
• Remove the rubber insulator
• Unscrew the second copper contact using a set of ceramic tweezers (or you can just use the flat of your finger for grip)
• Push down through the centre of the magnet to pop the switch assembly out the buttom. I found the easiest way to do this, was to unscrew the copper contact fully, and then keep it in place but use the centre pint to push out the switch

Nice and easy, and as I say, I would recommend doing this first to make sure both of the copper contacts are properly cleaned and polished up. Hopefully they will be perfect in the final version, but it’s always a good idea to check.

On my own version, the lower of the two contact plates had quite a number of small scratches across it. They were very light, but as seasoned mech users will know, anything that isn’t a perfect finish will just increase the chance of arcing.

I used some very fine grit sand paper, and polished everything up to a mirror finish.

Hellvape Trishul V2 – Spring In A Magnetic Switch?

If you take the switch apart you will also notice the there is a spring, sitting inside the switch assembly.

This is not designed to be removed and sits in the base, coming into contact with the switch when it’s pushed in.

This is a canted coil spring, and is there to provide a good contact between the tube and the switch.

These type of springs are designed in such a way that they form a perfect path for the electricity, spreading it out across the whole length of the spring and making contact with the switch, without interruptions and minimising heat build up.

How Does the Hellvape Trishul V2 Perform?

I know that I am mentioning safety in this review a lot, but it is really important with mechs in general, and ones that have hybrid connections have some further considerations.

Make sure that whatever atomizer you’re using has a positive 510 pin that protrudes at least 1mm. Remember that when you screw it all together, this will be touching the top of your battery, so you don’t want any risk of the negative portion of the 510 touching it and causing a short.

Also even if it looks ok, I would avoid using a stock coil sub-ohm tank. There are two reasons for this, firstly I have come across enough duff stock coils in my time that I am hesitant to rely on any company’s quality control when they make them in the thousands.

Secondly on a lot of stock coil tanks, the positive pin of the 510 connector is floating.

This means that it can move up and down a little to account for different mods.

However it raises the risk that it may get depressed enough that the negative portion of the 510 makes contact with positive top of your battery. Not good.

Also, as it is a hybrid, remember to screw your tank on first before you put a battery in – since the base of your tank is what is going to be the top contact of the battery.

Hellvape Trishul V2 – Testing

I’ve had the Trishul V2 for a few weeks now, and I have tried a variety of different RDA and RTA’s on it.

Although it’s not a perfect match, I kept the Serpent Elevate RTA on it for the longest time.

For all of my testing, with the exception of checking the 18650 adapter worked, I was using a Molicell P42A.

Hellvape Trishul V2 – Does It Hit Hard?

Yes, it definitely does!

I’m afraid I don’t have the required testing apparatus to determine what voltage drop the mod has. However with a solid brass construction and large copper contacts, with only one set of threads for the switch (no removable top plate), I would imagine the voltage drop is fairly negligible.

Certainly in use I didn’t notice it firing with any less power than some of my other mechs.

Hellvape Trishul V2 – How Does the Switch Feel?

I really like the switch, although people that like spring based mechanical switches may not.

The original Hellvape Trishul gave you the option of spring or magnets. However I’m personally happy with one system designed well, rather than trying to accommodate two different types of switch into one design.

It requires as decent amount of pressure to fire, so be aware of this if you have weak fingers or you like to pinky fire.

Also there is a very distinct *snap* as the magnets separate and the switch makes contact. There is absolutely no mushiness to it, no grinding against the side, and no sticking.

Any Other Thoughts?

I really like how the mod feels in the hand. The hourglass shape feels like it is at just the right place to comfortably grip the tube and have access to the switch.

The original Trishul had a similar shape, but the hourglass waist was much further down the tube, so I think this is a definite improvement.

Pros

• Solid brass construction
• Really snappy switch design

Cons

• No option for a spring based switch (subjective con)
• Poor finish on interior surfaces/contacts (pre-production unit)

Final Review Verdict

So as you can probably tell I am pretty impressed with the Hellvape Trishul V2 mech mod.

For a company that doesn’t have much of a back catalogue when it comes to mechs, it is a solid effort.

I am a really big fan of how tactile the switch is especially. The *snap* as the magnets part and the switch makes contact, along with the reassuring return pressure of the magnets to join together again, is great.

Although my pre-production version had some niggles when it comes to finish, I’m hopeful that Hellvape will sort these out for the final release.

In fact, I like this mod so much I may well pick up another at retail, and if so I will report back with any updates.

So…is the Hellvape Trishul V2 mech mod one you’re considering buying?

Let me know in the comments below and of course I’m more than happy to answer any of your questions

The post Hellvape Trishul V2 Review – Solid Brass Mech appeared first on Ecigclick.

American YouTube vape reviewer Mike Vapes collaborates with Dovpo and Signature Tips/Mods to create this very trendy looking mech mod!

Last year (2019) I would say Dovpo was my favorite manufacturer. Not only are they responsible for the Topside 90w and Topside Dual, which quite frankly are some of the most popular mainstream and best squonk mods on the market. But last year they upped their game!

Mostly joining forces with vape reviewers, they produced the Topside Lite, Odin DNA250C and 200w Dual 21700 mod with Sam, the Vaping Bogan, who also put his stamp on the Blotto RTA.

And then to finish the year off they managed to pull in Signature Tips / Mods to make the Topside SQ, the Mono SQ DNA75C and finally, the Clutch mech mod.

Signature Tips mods are pretty much best known for their unique shape, style and build quality. Their SQ mods look similar in shape and style to the Clutch mod, with a box shape and unique curves on one end, making their mods an ideal finger firer with your fingers nestling between the groves on one end of the box.

Before we get into this review, I really want to stress this is a MECHANICAL Mod, meaning there is no regulation or safety features.

Quite simply meaning there is more risk, as opposed to using a typical regulated device. If you don’t understand what I mean by mechanical mod, then I strongly suggest you go and do some research before carrying on with this review, or picking up this product.

Read more:

• Mechanical V Regulated – A Guide To Vape Mods
• Electrickery – A Guide to Volts, Ohms and Resistence in Ecigs

Watch Mike Vapes Introduction Video

Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch – This is a Mechanical Mod!

With all ‘mech mods’ – I strongly suggest you look into a number of things before you delve into the world of mechs, beginning with looking into battery safety, ensuring your batteries are high quality and well looked after.

Once you’re done with that, brush up on Ohms Law [see link above] to ensure that the build you put on a mechanical mod isn’t going to destroy your batteries – which trust me, is not a nice experience.

What Can We Expect From the Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch?

The Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch is a single 21700 mechanical mod, made from solid billet aluminium and is beautifully finished.

If you know much about any of the names involved in the creation of the Clutch mod, you’ll be aware that quality is generally very high, and at a glance, that quality of the Clutch follows suit.

With that quality in mind, I’m expecting the Clutch to hit fairly hard considering it can take a single 21700 battery and looking at the internals, solid silver contacts and a Hybrid 510 connection.

Watch the Flatcap Vaper’s Hands On Video Review and Tutorial

Right, let’s Crack On and see what this is all about…

Inside the Box

• 1 x Clutch Mod
• 1 x Screwdriver
• 2 x Spare Screws
• 1 x QC Certificate
• 1 x Info card
• 1 x Battery Safety Card

I’ve said this before about mechanical mods, as much as we hope that people who use mech mods know what they’re doing, I really think they should include some additional information and maybe some helpful links for battery safety and Ohms Law Calculators etc.

Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch – Specs and Features

Clutch Mod

• Height: 79.5mm
• Width: 35mm
• Depth: 27mm
• Battery: 21700 (Possibility to use 18650 with an Adaptor)
• Solid Silver Contact Points
• Unique Fire Button Locking System
• Solid Billet Aluminium Construction
• Hybrid 510 Connection

Design and Build Quality

The Clutch is made from an anodized solid aluminium, meaning its lightweight but still has a fair amount of strength to it, along with fairly good heat dissipation properties. However, the features of the Clutch mod come to life once you take the 2 panels off the device.

Removing the battery door, which is held in place by 4 small, yet strong magnets, you expose all the internals to the device.

There is a nice amount of insulation material around the inside, to protect your battery against shorting onto the device. And the silver contact strip, that links the fire button to the negative terminal at the base of the device, is nicely insulated. That can also be removed to adjust the strip – more on this later.

Looking inside the device, you notice a small protruding pin which if you remove the rear battery cover, allows you to lock the fire button on and off – very smart indeed and perfectly hidden behind the rear battery door.

At the base of the device is the usual manufacturers information, along with an anodized serial number.

Up top is the hybrid 510 connection, hybrid simply means that your chosen RDA or RTA will screw directly onto the positive pin of the battery, meaning there is less of a volt drop between contacts- ideal to help create a hard hitting mech mod.

One thing to keep in mind with hybrid connections used in this manner, and a battery that fits in from the side and not from the base like the typical mechanical tube mod, you need to ensure the battery is installed first, before screwing onto your dripper or tank.

Following on from this, even with your RDA/RTA installed, you may notice a slight amount of battery wobble, this can be remedied and I will leave a small tutorial about this, nearer the end of the review.

Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch – In The Hand

I must admit this is the first time I’ve had the opportunity to hold, and use a Signature Tips mod, or any device of this kind of style. And I’m impressed with its feel in the hand, yet I feel a little let down at the same time.

Yes the curved ridges on one end allow your index finger to be placed perfectly on the fire button, with the following fingers resting on the indents of the next 2 curves. However the Clutch is very small, meaning you’re left with still a lot of your hand with nowhere to go.

This isn’t an uncomfortable mod by any means, and its impressive how they’ve kept it so small. But personally, after using the Clutch for a while now, I feel I would prefer a device of this style with more width, possibly like the Topside SQ, meaning that extra width fills up more of your palm.

The fit, feel and finish of the Clutch is excellent, it has a beautiful anodized finish which feels high quality and during my time I’ve not noticed any scratches or damage and due to its finish, its not much of a fingerprint magnet either – top notch!

With regards to what you could fit on the Clutch – anything over 26mm and you’re going to have to deal with over-hang.

But for a lightweight compact Mech Mod,I doubt you’re planning on fitting anything too big on top.

How Does the Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch Perform?

I’ve probably used no more than 5 different mechanical tube mods in my 5 or so years of vaping. Somehow I’ve avoided the temptation so far to go deep into the ‘mech’ world. But what I can say, is that the Clutch mod hits harder than any of the mechanical mods I use.

Considering its size, and single battery capability, it hits real hard and punchy.

Obviously you’ll have a lot to consider when using the Clutch mechanical mod. Which RDA/RTA to use, battery type and performance, and most importantly the resistance of the build you are vaping on.

Get all these right and you will thoroughly enjoy the performance of the Clutch.

It’s an absolute banger.

Putting the Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch Under Pressure

Seeing as the Clutch enjoys to hit me hard, I decided to put the Clutch under a little bit of pressure.

Fitting a dual fused clapton built in my Kaees Alexander RDA, reading at 0.10Ω which erm… A little borderline, but that depends who you speak to.

I wanted to test the durability of the Clutch and how quickly it builds up heat. And considering the silver contact points, will this metal cope well enough with a serious amount of heat and battery draw?

During my cautious testing, the Clutch did very well. After a brief inspection of the contacts, everything seemed as it was before the test.

Yes the Clutch got fairly hot, but not seriously hot, the aluminium body did well to spread and dissipate the heat.

Battery Wobble with the Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch

If like me, you fit your chosen 21700 battery, then screw down your RDA, you may or may not experience a little battery wobble.

Fortunately there is a way to stop this from happening.

As much as a 21700 of any type should be pretty much exactly the same size, there are minor differences, and the same goes for the 510 pin on your dripper or tank.

With that in mind, if you have a little wobble, you don’t want it. A loose fitted battery can cause overheating, sparks, hot spots and much worse.

To remove this issue, remove the battery and the small printed cover that protects the metal link strip from the button to the negative end of the battery, and using a small set of pliers, gently bend the end of the strip down.

It’ll only need a minor adjustment, but make sure the adjustment is square and straight across the whole strip, and you’re good to go!

Mech Mod Safety

If you’ve never owned or used an unregulated device like a mechanical mod of any description, its important to understand the dangers of it.

What we’re dealing with are batteries that have a huge discharge current, capable of putting out high current.

Now remember, the current is the flow of electricity. The discharge current on the Samsung 30T is 35Amps, which is a little more than the usual socket circuit in your home.

And generally, people are using between 30 and 70 Amps at any one time in their home.

So if you’re looking at picking up a ‘mech mod’ – First thing I suggest would be to spend some time understanding how it all works, as in, why everyone suggests you understand Ohms Law and why battery safety is important.

In simple terms, if you had a water pipe with a cap on the end, and put water through the pipe, eventually the pressure will build up so much, that either the cap would fly off, or the pipe would crack and water would go everywhere.

Same rules apply to batteries, and the build you install in your RDA/RTA – the only difference is, the cap on a battery can explode and cause more than just a flooded garden.

A regulated device limits the output to a safe level of the device, and will also protect you from a short circuit and overheating along with a number of other potentially dangerous events.

But none of that safety protection is there with a mechanical mod.

I also suggest you look up Battery Mooch on YouTube or check out his Facebook page.

He’s basically the Guru when it comes to batteries, safety and what batteries work best for which mod.

He also openly calls out manufacturers for stating wrong ratings on batteries.

Pros

• A uniquely styled Mech Mod
• Very well built
• Excellent Internals
• Clever fire button lock system
• Top notch paint finish

Cons

• A little small to fill a mans hand
• No regulation or protection may be a con to some
• Battery wobble but fairly easy to adjust with tools

Final Review Verdict

I’ve really enjoyed using the Clutch.

As much as its a little small, that doesn’t mean its not fun to use.

It’s a hard hit, fantastic build quality and finish make it a lovely every day mod. If you’re experienced with mechanical mods, I’m pretty sure you may have already hovered the mouse over the ‘Add To Basket’ button on the Clutch.

If I wasn’t lucky enough to be sent it to review, I probably would have picked it up by now anyway.

If mechanical mods aren’t your cup of tea, but you like the style of the Clutch, you may want to take a look at the Dovpo Signature Mods Mono SQ DNA75C, which is pretty simply the same kind of device, but with all the protective features of a regulated device.

Have you bought the Dovpo Signature Mods Clutch – or thinking of buying it?

Let us know in the comments below.

The post Dovpo X Signature Mods Clutch Mech Mod Review – A Mike Vapes Project appeared first on Ecigclick.

Like a lot of people I’m stuck sitting at home at the moment, so it seems like a good time to be getting on with some reviews!

Happily I recently received the curious Kizoku Kirin, a bit of a mash up of various recent trends in the vape industry.

What Can We Expect From the Kizoku Kirin Kit?

As you will know if you read my review on the Kizoku Limit, Kizoku are a Japanese company that until recently have been more known for their atomizer stands and drip tips.

With the Kirin kit they have decided to combine two increasingly popular types of vape, the MOSFET tube mod, and the disposable tank. Slightly weird combo, especially when you have a sub-ohm, 18350 configuration, but OK!

Although Kizoku call the Kirin mod a “semi-mech”, it really is quite a long way from being a true mechanical device. That’s not to say I don’t like them, in fact I now own 4 different mods of this style including the Stratum 0.

For more information on the different types of mod I highly recommend our Mechanical V Regulated page which helps to break it down.

The Kirin goes the same way as the Ambition Mods Luxem, in that it is not only has some protection, but also has a constant voltage output, in this case 3.5V.

This was sent over for Heaven Gifts for review (thank you). As usual, by thoughts are my own, and I am not influenced by freebies.

Inside The Box

• Kirin tube mod (preconfigured for 18350)
• 18650 Extension Tube
• 0.5Ω tank
• 1.2Ω tank
• Manual and Warranty Card

Please note, for my review I was sent the two tanks and the tube in individual boxes. I have seen at least one other reviewer who was sent it all in one box, so I’m unsure as to which configuration you will get at retail.

When it comes in one box you get the tank pre-configured as the 1.2Ω, and the 0.5Ω as only the spare internal section, so keep a hold of your base and drip tip!

KIZOKU Kirin Kit Specs

• Dimensions – 81mm x 24mm (mod) 42mm x 24mm (tank excluding 510)
• Weight – 75g (mod)
• Power Output – Constant 3.5V
• Resistance Range – 0.2-3.0Ω
• Coil Resistance – 0.5Ω and 1.2Ω
• Battery – Single 18650 or 18350
• Capacity – 2ml

Design and Build Quality

KIZOKU Kirin Kit – Tank

This is a two piece disposable tank. You have a PCTG section that your coil lives in and you fill up with e-liquid, and a metal base that houses your 510 connector and airflow control.

At the top you have a vase-shaped, removable 510 drip tip, that’s double o-ringed. It’s a two-piece design with an upper section of black plastic, and a metal base.

This is inserted into your clear tank section. It also means that when your coil is exhausted, you don’t need to throw away all of it. Just the internal tank section, just remember to keep your drip tip! There’s no markings on it except the regulatory marks on the base and the word “KIRIN”.

The fact that there’s no indication of which tank is the 1.2Ω and which is the 0.5Ω is a bit of an oversight here. As if you have a couple of them, you have no way of knowing which is which!

There’s a silicone plug at the base of this section with quite a tiny fill hole. I’ll speak more about this when we look at how to fill it.

KIZOKU Kirin Kit – AFC Base

The base is also a two-piece design. The lower section has your 510 connection, and two big air holes.

Into this, your airflow control is inserted and held in place by two o-rings. Unusually when it’s on your mod, the lower portion with the main holes stays static, and the upper section rotates lining up with different airflow control holes.

You either have a cyclops style AFC which is doubled up on the other side. Alternatively you can close these off and use 5 pinholes to adjust your airflow, these are only on one side of the tank.

KIZOKU Kirin Kit – The Mod

The tube is made up of three piece that can be unscrewed. In the box it will be set up in 18350 configuration, but if you want to put an 18650 in, you just need to unscrew the bottom cap insert the extension piece, and then screw it all back together.

KIZOKU Kirin Kit – 510 Connector

At the top you have your 510 connector with “Designed By KIZOKU” printed on it. The 510 connector is not spring mounted, although it does have a small amount of play. Instead it looks like the positive pin is sat on top of an insulating block to raise it up and stop it from getting pressed flat by a tank with an overly long 510.

Unfortunately this also means that the two tank sections I have don’t quite sit flush with the mod, instead there’s a tiny gap between them. You can only see it if you look from the side, but it’s still a bit irritating!

The top of the tube has a slight bevel, taking it in to 22mm diameter. Anything more than this and you will get some overhang. The top cap looks like it should be removable, but it seems like it’s press fitted rather than screwed into place.

This is definitely a negative point for me, as if you get e-liquid into your 510 connector, it’s going to be making contact directly with the MOSFET and potentially causing issues. Without being able to access the MOSFET you can’t get in to dry it out, but also if you ever do damage the chip, you will have to bin (recycle!) the whole thing.

KIZOKU Kirin Kit – 18350 Section

Working our way down the hourglass shaped tube, one side has your fire button. With the KR branding that I assume stands for Kirin. This is cut into the metal and has a nice satisfying click.

On either side of this you have three angled slits cut into the tube, to begin with I though these were just decorative, the vape equivalent of “go-faster” stripes, but it turns out that the Kirin actually has an LED inside that glows through these.

The side opposite your fire button has “kizoku” engraved into the metal, and this is actually another minor negative for me. When I’m using a tube mod, I like being able to pick it up and know where the fire button is by feel alone. Unfortunately on this one, it’s hard to distinguish behind the engraving on the fire button, and the branding on the opposite side.

It’s a very minor niggle, but it’s worth pointing out. Especially as I have now had many times where I’ve gone to use it, and instead tried pressing on solid metal!

If you’re using it in 18350 mode, the bottom cap screws directly on to this. I’m pleased to see that they use the same battery cap, as something like the Ambition Mods Luxem, used one cap for the 18350, and a separate cap for the 18650.

KIZOKU Kirin Kit – 18650 Extension

The extension piece for the 18650 battery continues the hourglass shape from the top section, though as it’s shorter it looks a little unbalanced to me. There’s no additional ornamentation on it at all, and I kind of wish it were just a straight tube for this section.

Bottom Cap

The bottom cap has the same rope design that is printed on the base of the tank, and the negative plate can be screwed in or out of the cap to adjust any battery rattle and ensure a firm connection.

There’s a couple of vent holes on this with branding printed on the bottom, and the regulatory marks inside, along with the negative symbol.

If you look down the tube to the top, you can also see there’s a nice big positive symbol printed, so pretty easy to tell which way up your battery goes!

You can also see that there’s an internal insulator, to make sure everything is safe even if you haven’t noticed damage to one of your battery wraps.

How To Fill The Kizoku Kirin Tank

Unscrew the clear section from the metal base. Pull out the silicone stopper and fill with your e-liquid of choice.

Remember to leave it 5-10 minutes if this is the first time you’ve filled it – known as ‘priming’ your coil.

Turns out I REALLY don’t like filling this thing. Unless you have a very fine tipped bottle, it’s ridiculously easy to end up forming a airlock and spilling e-liquid out the top.

Because you can’t put your bottle tip down into the tank a long way, the tip of your bottle is going to be right in the neck of the fill port.

Especially with large bottles of e-liquid this became a bit of a messy business, and I would have loved it if they had used a double stopper design to open another air hole and allow the air somewhere to escape.

How Does the Kizoku Kiri Perform?

1.2Ω Tank

I’m a big fan of MTL, so I thought I would try out the higher resistance tank first. With a 1.2Ω coil, and the mod producing 3.5V, the wattage is going to be a little over 10W.

I loaded it up with Berry Ice from Vape Simple at 50/50 PG/VG and put it in 18350 mode.

Unfortunately I discovered very quickly that I was getting dry hits. I tested this out with a couple of friends (I didn’t tell them what I was doing first) and I’ve found that it’s partly down to my style of vaping. I chain vape quite a lot and I suck on MTL quite forcefully.

If you go easy on it, it’s OK, but if you vape like I do then you end up getting a dry hit by the second or third pull.

However I think that also the mod is outputting a little too much power for this style of tank, whilst it’s rated between 8-12W, having put it on a regulated mod I think it’s definitely putting out towards the top end of this range.

Personally I found that this tank didn’t suit me on the Kirin tube at all, but putting it on a regulated mod at 8 or 9W, I was able to get a very pleasant vape.

Kizoku Kiri Kit – Flavour and Cloud Production

Flavour is generally OK. It’s nothing to write home about, and it’s not quite as punchy as I would normally like. But it does the job to the same sort of level as an older MTL pod kit.

Cloud production, especially at 8W, is pretty minimal!

Kizoku Kiri Kit – 0.5Ω Tank

Now this is more like it! It gives a noticeably warmer vape but is quite suitable for doing MTL as well as DTL. Wattage wise it’s putting out about 25W. Due to it outputting a higher power, I decided I’d give this a go in 18650 mode as an 18350 will not last long!

I tried this out primarily with Bango Mango from Large Juice, this is a 70/30 e-liquid and even chain vaping on it I couldn’t get it to give me a dry hit.

Kizoku Kiri Kit – Flavour and Cloud Production

Flavour is also a few steps up from the 1.2Ω. The Bango Mango I was using in it was full and flavoursome. To see how this would perform with a thinner e-liquid I also used my preferred Berry Ice at 50/50, and the flavour really popped.

Looking down at the coil you can tell it’s actually a mesh coil (although they don’t seem to say this anywhere!) so it’s definitely capable of standing toe-to-toe with other pods and small disposable tanks on the market.

Cloud production is pretty decent from this combination, with a good amount of vapour. If you want to push it up a little higher, I found that it’s performed well up to around 30W on a regulated device.

Kizoku Kiri Kit – Airflow 1.2Ω and 0.5Ω

You’ll notice that I’m going to talk about the airflow on both of these in the same section. The reason for this is they are almost identical.

Both the airflow control options, but also the draw on them fully open. Having looked at the bore on both of these, it’s pretty similar.

Kizoku Kiri Kit – Pinhole Airflow

Starting off at a single hole, this is a pretty tight MTL draw. On a scale of 1-10, with 1 being the tightest “old school” draw, this is a 2.5.

Opening it up and that increases up to a 6 with all holes open. Plenty of air for a restrictive lung hit, or a loose mouth to lung.

Kizoku Kiri Kit – Cyclops Airflow

This is obviously much looser throughout it’s range, although you can close it down to be fairly tight, it isn’t easy to fine tune this.

Instead this is far more designed to be capable of a direct to lung inhale.

Using my 1-10 scale, it goes up to an 8. It is also a lot noisier, especially if you open it up.

Interestingly if you start from fully open you can close it down a little before there’s any difference in the draw. Telling me that the limiting factor is the size of the bore.

Kizoku Kiri Kit – Mod

There’s not a great deal to talk about with the mod, it’s a pretty simple setup!

5 clicks on the fire button will switch it on/off.

However the LED’s will only flash (5 times) when you switch it on.

Again this is a negative point, as I’d much rather it showed you when you were turning it off as well, there’s always that question mark of “Did I actually turn it off just then? Or is it going to fire when I’ve got it in my pocket…”

The LED’s will also light up when you fire the mod, and they have a subtle “breathing” effect where they seem to slowly light up, and then dim.

I am also pretty sure that they glow red to show a short (or other error), though I’ve only seen this happen once or twice.

Pros

Mod

• 18350 or 18650 with just one piece to change, versatility!
• Incredibly simple to use

0.5Ω Tank

• Good flavour
• Decent cloud production

1.2Ω Tank

• Decent MTL Vape on a regulated mod

Cons

Mod

• Unable to access to MOSFET
• Hard to find the fire button by feel
• Doesn’t confirm you have switched it off

0.5Ω Tank

• Difficult to fill

1.2Ω Tank

• Difficult to fill
• Dry hits (1.2Ω on 3.5V mod)

Final Review Verdict

The Kizoku Kiri Kit is definitely interesting to say the least, and in 18350 mode it becomes super discrete and pocket friendly.

The few niggles I have with it are all pretty minor, there’s nothing “wrong” with it.

The one thing I would say is that all the advertising I have seen talks about the 1.2Ω tank and only maybe mentions that you get a spare 0.5Ω.

Personally I think the 0.5Ω is the star of the show, but battery life when in 18350 mode is going to be pretty short!

The mod itself is definitely something that I’m going to keep around, I enjoy how easy it is to get on with a Mosfet.

But I’m not a massive fan of the tanks, and I’m not sure how much I’d want to rely on being able to get replacement, even 6 months from now – especially from a relatively small company.

The post Kizoku Kirin Kit Review – Disposable, Mosfet, Sub-Ohm, 18350 Kit! appeared first on Ecigclick.

Based in China, Reewape Technology is leading manufacturer of quality resin drip tips and other products including the Ruok RBA.

That I was a dripper I was fortunate to review not that long ago!

What Can We Expect From Ruok Ghost 21700 Mech Mod

As I said in my review for the Ruok RBA, I have really only ever associated Reewape with drip tips!

I’m excited to get my hands on their Ghost Mech and did a happy dance when it came through my door lol.

I have always been a big fan of mech’s even though my use is limited these days! My hopes are high for this gorgeous looking tube.

Using only the best in materials, Reewape have created a high end mechanical mod that has a great aesthetic beauty – any enthusiast would be proud to have this in their collection.

Ruok Ghost Mech is available in 4 different colours: Brass, Copper, Black and Silver – with a choice of 2 different designs: Skull Ram and Hell Hound.

The connection point is hybrid, the switch has a 3 way constant contact clutch system and the button is an acrylic resin plate which looks really good.

Whilst the tube itself has a copper chassis and is compatible with 21700, 20700 and 18650 batteries – with an added plastic sleeve insert for added battery safety.

Is it worth spending your hard earned cash on this high end mechanical mod?

Come with me as I take a detailed look at the Ruok Ghost Mech from Reewape.

This product was kindly sent directly to me for review by Reewape, my views and thoughts on this product are my own after a considerable testing period.

BTW RUOK can be broken down to texting abbreviation from “Are You OK?”

Inside The Box

• 1 x Ghost 21700 Mech MOD
• 1 x Internal battery safety sleeve
• 1 x 18650 Battery Adapter
• 1 x User Manual/Certificate Book
• 1 x O-ring
• 1 x  Resin 810 Drip Tip
• 1 x  Resin 510 Drip Tip
• 1 x Bottle Short fill Cap Opener Tool with Chain

Features

• 27mm x 95.8mm
• Compatible with 21700, 20700 and 18650 batteries
• Hybrid 510 connection
• Copper chassis with plastic safety sleeve
• Silver plated contacts
• Constant contact switch with three piece clutch design

Design and Build Quality

The device kit comes in a plastic gift box that is packed with a foam inlay, inside you will find the Ghost mech mod wrapped in a dust jacket with a further protection of plastic net tubing.

There’s 2 high quality drip tips – a 510 and 810, a bottle opener tool with a neck chain and a spare O-ring.

A Closer Look At the Reewape Ruok Ghost 21700 Mech Mod

Measuring in at 98.8mm the tube has been designed with appearance in mind, the copper chassis has been milled well with no blemishes to its appearance.

The anti fatigue PVD coating used makes the mod feel very smooth and comfortable in hand.

The diameter of the hybrid connection is 27mm, with well turned threading and has details stamped into the copper.

Along one side of the mod is the design graphic, mine has the Hell Hound graphic design.

Inside the tube you will find an 18650 battery adapter, and removing this you will see the plastic safety sleeve – it took a bit of work but I was able to remove the sleeve.

Checking out the switch was very interesting for me, as it’s a design I haven’t personally seen before.

Removing the switch cap you will again note the threading has been done well on both the tube and cap. Around the base of the switch cap you will see the Reewape logo.

The connection point is silver plated and sits on an insulator that has 2 holes either side for the removal of the clutch.

The holes or slots also double up as battery venting.

On the base the button is made of acrylic resin which gives the mod more character.

If you look around the button you will see 4 semi circular holes and again these are for venting.

Reewape Ruok Ghost Clutch System

Removal of the clutch system from the cap is very easy with the help from a pair of tweezers.

Lift out the acrylic resin button, and you will see the assembly is held together with an O-ring. (a spare is in the box)!

When the button is pressed the plates are forced up the cone on the bottom side of the peek insulator and out towards the sides of the switch cap completing contact.

All the metal parts of the switch are silver plated improving conductivity.

The design means there is a big area of contact which improves connection, and it also helps reduces the possibility of arcing.

The quality and design of this product is extremely good.

How Does the Ruok Ghost Mech Perform?

For this review I used my Hellvape Passage RDA with a dual kanthal 24g coils on a 3.5mm bit, the resistance of my coils worked out to around 0.2Ω.

For liquid I will be using Crusaders “New York Cheesecake” (mild peppermint).

NOTE: Important information for your safety.

This is a hybrid mechanical mod.

Therefore before you operate this device or any like it, please ensure you have sufficient knowledge of OHMs law and Battery Safety!

What is a Hybrid Connection

A hybrid connection is commonly referred generally to mechanical mods that don’t have a 510 connection pin like a regulated mod does.

The 510 hybrid connection has a thread that allows the 510 atomizer to connect directly to the battery.

Therefore it is important that your battery be in good order.

Another thing to take into consideration is the atomizer you use with this type of product.

I recommend the use of RDA’s (my preference) or RTA’s with a generous connection pin that sticks out around 1mm.

Safety Tip: always make sure with any hybrid connection that you always put the atomizer on the mod first before you insert any battery.

Also sent along with the Ruok Ghost, a few samples of Reewape’s high quality drip tips.

At some point I will be giving them away on my YouTube channel and or my Facebook group “Sussex Vape Club”.

Reewape Ruok Ghost Mech In Use

The switch/fire button

Right off the bat I will say that the switch for this mech is hard to push.

I have un-assembled and reassembled the switch many time over the last few weeks of testing, including replacing the O-ring with the spare, adnd still find that pushing the button is incredibly firm.

I have ended up holding the mech in one hand while the thumb on my opposite hand presses the switch lol, not very elegant but it works for now!

I am almost convinced that this is down to my arthritis coupled with the strength of the O-ring that holds everything together, however I am hoping that over time the O-ring will weaken enough to become more comfortable so I can fully enjoy this product.

My hand strength aside, I have got to say this is one hard hitting tube, the fire connection is instantaneous, with the coils I have in my Passage RDA the volume of vapour is tremendous and the flavour is extremely good.

Reewape Ruok Ghost and Batteries

In 21700 battery mode, I get almost 5 hours per battery.

I never chain vape this type of device.

I have tried 18650 batteries in the mod and the Ghost functions well, although with 20700 batteries there is a slight rattle apparent, but if you raise the insulator slightly inside the switch, this rattle goes away.

Bottle Opener and Drip Tips

I have found the bottle opener indispensable

Made of stainless steel with the Ruok logo on it, the opener has made my life 100 times easier in opening 50ml short fill bottles and 10ml Nic shot bottles. While the opener doesn’t work with every 100ml bottle I tried, it does makes very quick work of the rest.

Reewape include with the kit 2 of their high quality drip tips I’ve got to say they are gorgeous.

Pros

• Build quality is excellent
• Design is great
• Constant contact switch with three piece clutch design
• Hard hitting
• Plenty of vapour produced
• Instantaneous fire
• Great addition of the bottle opener tool

Cons

• Incredibly tight O-ring in the switch

Final Review Verdict

While I don’t use mechanical mods that often these days (down to my arthritis), over the course of the few weeks I have been testing the Ruok Ghost, my findings are, while the switch is very firm, this is an incredibility hard hitting mod that is solidly built.

I have thoroughly enjoyed using it.

While I would almost say it a competition high-end creation “almost” is the key word!

High-end definitely with the manufacturing and quality top notch and the design almost so!

If Reewape were to reduce the tension of the O-ring slightly I wouldn’t hesitate in giving this mod 10 out of 10 for a competition rating.

Would I Recommend the Reewape Ruok Ghost 21700 Mech Mod ?

This product is not suitable for those without a rudimentary knowledge of Ohms law and battery safety.

As the Ghost stands for people without hand or finger problems I would heartily recommend this device.

For those of us that do suffer with dexterity issues, I would add a warning word of caution about the O-ring before purchase.

Would I buy the Reewape Ruok Ghost Mech Again Due To Loss Or Damage?

I personally would replace the Ghost in a millisecond!

Basically because I have confidence the switch O-ring will loosen overtime.

My biggest hurdle would be justifying the cost to Mrs J the ruler of my heart and keeper of the purse strings lol.

Do you like the look of this hybrid mech mod?

And what do you think about the switch?

Let me know in the comments below!

The post Reewape Ruok Ghost Mech Mod Review – Interesting Switch On This One! appeared first on Ecigclick.

One thing I will say right now, if you are looking to get an Ultroner Mini Stick, this isn’t for the new vaper, you must know Ohm’s Law and a knowledge of Mechanical Mods.
There is no doubting Ultroner have certainly made a super tiny vape mod here but I personally think more thought could have gone into naming it!
Ultroner was founded in 2016. They mainly produce electronic vape products with the Stabilized Wood finish.

What Can We Expect From The Ultroner Mini Stick?

The Ultroner Mini Stick is just 48mm in length, is powered by 1X 18350 battery and is of course finished with a Stab Wood sleeve. It comes in 4 colours with either a SS or Black housing.

This device was sent to me for review by Vapeciga, thank you. As always, I will give you my own, honest opinion of this product after a lengthy testing period.

See The Ultroner Mini Stick In Action – Hands On Vode

In The Box

• Ultroner Mini Stick
• Lanyard
• Warranty Card
• Beauty Ring/Lanyard attachment
• Rubber block

Features

• Size: 24 x 48mm
• Battery: 1 × 18350 (not included)
• Mechanical mod with MOSFET switch
• Ultem Fire button
• Stabilised wood sleeve with Stainless Steel body
• Resistance range: 0.5ohm minimum

Design and Build Quality

Well, the design of Ultroner Mini Stick is basic but this is a mini Mechanical Mod after all.

By this, I mean you have a tube with two detachable ends. The top cap houses the MOSFET switch whilst the bottom cap has a screw down adjuster for your battery.

You have a stainless steel tube that houses your battery and a Stabilised Wood sleeve that goes over the stainless steel tube.

That been said, it all fits together very well and the build quality is very good as you would expect for something of this price point.

As far as I can tell after a lot of research, the MOSFET board at the top of the Mod is only to act as a switch and will not give you very much protection at all.

Bear this in mind when you use your RDA or RTA with this. Ultroner recommend all builds to be 0.5ohm or above. I would highly recommend you take heed of this!

On the bottom of the device, you have two large battery venting ports as well as the means to tighten or loosen the connection with the battery to stop any rattle.

The 510 connector is on the top of the device but be careful with the top of the MOSFET board.

There is a small piece of metal, that, over time will be pushed down with differing sized 510 pins. I can only presume the small rubber block is to put under this to prevent this from happening.

The MOSFET board is very fragile. If you have to take it out for any reason at all, be very careful. Also, if you do remove it, keep an eye on the Ultem fire button as this will just fall out.

The Fire button is nicely placed on the Mod though it is only comfortable for me firing it with my thumb. If you were to use your finger to fire the device, it becomes very awkward.

Batteries and Placement

On the bottom cap to the Ultroner Mini Stick, it’s clearly marked negative. Simply place your 18350 battery into the main body positive up and screw on the bottom cap then adjust accordingly.

How Does The Ultroner Mini Stick Perform?

I do know that you can get the Ultroner Mini Stick as a kit with an RDA thrown in. I do however feel that this kit is best used with an MTL RDA or RTA because it isn’t recommended to go below 0.5ohms when you put a build in your device.

I have used the Ultroner Mini Stick primarily with the Kayfun Lite 2019 RTA and it has performed very well. I have also used it with the Digiflavor Drop Solo, whilst the vape from this was ok, it just wasn’t for me.

Battery Life

You aren’t going to get massive amounts of battery life from any 18350 battery no matter what you do. However, using this as I did, as a carry round and vaping it for a nicotine hit with 20mg Nic Salts, it can last all day.

If you are using it as your main device, then you will get two to three hours at best.

Pros

• Superb small form factor
• Great Looks
• Stabwood Sexiness
• Easy to use
• Well Built

Cons

• MOSFET board is only a switch style
• No protection from MOSFET
• No instruction manual
• No warnings
• No information at all!

Final Review Verdict

Ok, this is a lovely, small mechanical device. Super sexy Stabwood if that’s your thing. It performs very well for its small form factor but it certainly isn’t going to be anyone’s daily driver, though I don’t think that’s Ultroners intention at all.

If you’re looking for something that’s a little different, something away from mainstream vaping devices then I think this would be a very good buy for you.

You aren’t going to be blowing huge arse clouds from this and don’t think it’s going to be a hard hitting Mechanical Mod, it’s none of those.

This is, though, an ideal device for some MTL vaping and you can show off some of that Stabwood sexiness. Did I mention Stabwood?

The post Ultroner Mini Stick Mod Review – Stab Wood, Semi Mech Sexiness appeared first on Ecigclick.

No, it’s not an antique and no it’s not a centrepiece for the fireplace..or maybe it is?

One thing is for sure, you can stick an RDA or RTA on top and enjoy a lovely vape with this extremely unusual, expensive mechanical tube mod!

With all ‘Mech Mods’ – I strongly suggest you look into a number of things before you delve into the world of mechs, beginning with looking into battery safety, ensuring your batteries are high quality and well looked after.

Once you’re done with that, brush up on Ohms Law to ensure that the build you put on a mechanical mod isn’t going to destroy your batteries – which trust me, is not a nice experience.

• • Beginners Guide To Batteries Used in Vaping

• • A Guide To Ohms Law – Volts and Amps

See The OneTop Pharaoh Mech in Action

What Can We Expect From The Pharaoh by One Top?

Let’s get something out of the way first – this mod won’t be for everyone.

In fact, it will only really be for the very few. Those who are die-hard collectors, or who have an infatuation with Egypt or something?

Or perhaps just for someone looking for something to talk about with their friends?

What we’re looking at is a fully mechanical Mod which can hold a single 18650, 20700 or 21700 battery. It can hold up to a 28mm diameter RDA/RTA without any overhang and is beautifully constructed from ‘high quality’ brass and is made in China.

It has a Hybrid 510 connection at the top and 4 holes for venting, and at the bottom is a gold-plated Constant Contact switch which is removable in order to fit your batteries.

So let’s Crack On and see what this is all about…

What’s In The Box

• 1 x Pharaoh Tube Mod
• 1 x 18650 Battery Adaptor

I really wish this device came with some form of information on safety with regards to using a mechanical mod, and some information on the device itself.

Specs and Features

Pharaoh Mechanical Tube Mod

• Height: 93mm
• Diameter: 35mm
• Top Diameter: 28mm
• Weight:252.0g
• Battery: 21700/20700/18650(With Adaptor)

Design and Build Quality

The Pharaoh obviously only comes in a brass finish, and I’ll be honest, I’m not expert with regards to metal finishing, and I have absolutely no idea how this product is manufactured.

The One Top website doesn’t shed much light on the question either.

But from my untrained eye, I can say this is an absolutely beautiful piece. There is so much detail to the Pharaoh that every time I look at it, I see something I didn’t notice before.

So I’m going to use the power of imagery to try and show every part of this wonderfully crafted device.

An Ancient Egyptian Pharaoh.

I’m no Ancient Egypt expert, but I’m pretty sure this is based on Tutankhamen.

With the 2 serpents up top, the headdress and the long braided beard. The detail is truly remarkable and surprising for something made in china.

The Back

At the top is the Sun which I believe is made from copper – and with the amount of polishing it needs, I’m pretty sure it is copper.

Below that is a nice detailed pyramid and a load of hieroglyphics between the two.

Around the rest of the mod is an abundance of hieroglyphs and 2 ancient Egyptian Guardians which I believe to be Anubis, who was the God of the Dead.

And I think the bird-looking Guardian is Horus, who was a god of the sky. But I might be wrong on that one. My googling skills aren’t the best!

Lets take a minute to appreciate the detail on this Mod.

The Button

The threaded button at the base of the Pharaoh is a gold-plated constant contact switch which you can take apart if you need to for any reason.

It also has a little latch which you pull up to unscrew the button from the mod. Which you’ll need nails for, but is nice and smooth and not too annoying.

Using a set of needle-nose pliers simply unscrew the white ring which I think might be ceramic or plastic, unfortunately, I have no information on that.

The kit doesn’t come with any spare parts, which is a shame really. If your spring was to break it looks like you’ll either have to contact One Top and hope they still have springs available or rummage around the local Bits ‘n Bobs store.

The button has a really nice throw to is and is nice and smooth. It also feels nice and mechanical.

It wasn’t until I took the button off that I saw quite how nasty the mod is inside – not that it’s important, and I have no clue about brass manufacturing, it’s just something that’s worth mentioning.

In The Hand

This is by no means of the imagination a comfortable mod, with its bumps and curves it’s not the most ergonomic. But there are 2 positions that I find most comfortable.

Face Front

Holding with your index finger wrapped below the beard leaves the rest of your fingers wrapped around the least bumpy sections of the mod, whilst cupping the pyramid at the back between your thumb and index finger.

Face Back

This is just reversed to the Face front of course, which basically looks like the Pharaoh is resting his beard on the section between your thumb and index finger, and leaves your fingers wrapped around the pyramid.

Holding this device in any other way leaves your hand pressed against the uncomfortable bits, like the beard or the 2 serpents on the top of the mod.

It’s worth saying this device is an absolute pain to match up with a Dripper or RTA.

In fact, I would only recommend something like the Vaper Cloud Asgard Mini in brass – which I’ve been unable to pick up as its always out of stock everywhere.

So I went with the Vandy Vape Widowmaker RDA in gold – not perfect but doesn’t look too bad.

Anything above 28mm will overhang so keep that in mind also.

I really don’t think many RDA’s or RTA’s will match this device perfectly unless they’re made from brass (which is rare), or a similar coloured gold, and are 28mm in diameter.

That’s a shame, but then this really is a niche item.

We are always updating our best RDA and best RTA posts so check those out.

How Does the Pharaoh Mech Mod Perform?

Using a fully charged Samsung 30T 21700 battery, it hits as well as any single battery mechanical tube mod I’ve tried in the past.

And obviously, your battery life will depend on the build you have installed in your RDA/RTA which of course you need to seriously consider.

It hits pretty hard with the right build, minimal ramp up and as long as its held right, is fairly comfortable to use on a day to day basis.

Personally, I wouldn’t recommend using this daily as you do tend to get odd looks from people. One chap even asked:

Did you steal that from your Nan and turn it into a Vape?

Hilarious.

No matter which battery size you decide to use, you get zero battery rattle.

This is mainly due to the Hybrid 510 connection which means you effectively clamp the battery down between the 510 pin from your RDA, and the battery cap.

Just be sure to fit your tank or RDA on first, before screwing the battery cap all the way in.

Voltage Drop

Considering my electrical background, I’m ashamed to say I haven’t done this test since 2015 when I first tried a mechanical tube mod.

Simply put, what you’re trying to discover, is if there is any volt drop through the tube when a battery is installed.

This Samsung 30T put out 4.07v between Positive (+) and negative (-)

Across any distance, a current flowing through an object, cable, or tube mod – loses voltage. Its a little like water losing pressure through a tube.

So the battery was put into the mod, along with the Vandy Vape Widowmaker RDA, and with 2 different builds, you’re able to get an idea of the voltage drop.

With your probes across the Positive and Negative terminals on the RDA and a press of the fire button, the 1.2ohm build showed a voltage drop of just 0.12v. With the 0.30ohm build, the voltage dropped by 0.30v.

Pretty impressive.

To be honest I was expecting decent results for a mod made of thick solid brass.

In comparison, I get a 0.25v and 0.56v drop using the Coilart Mage Mech V2 Mech Mod.

Cleaning

I didn’t think I’d ever really need to make a separate section for cleaning a vape device, but here goes!

When I received the Pharaoh, the brass seemed a little tarnished and blemished in places.

So I got myself down to the local supermarket and picked up a bottle of Brasso, with the intention of fully cleaning and polishing the Pharaoh mech mod.

However, if you go completely to town on this mod, what you will end up with is a completely brass looking mod, with none of that black effect (Oxidisation) in the crevices between everything.

Meaning you basically won’t notice the detail quite as well. So I just gave it a gentle clean-up/polish to try and remove the tarnish to the important parts, whilst leaving the black effect intact.

Of course, if you leave this mod on a shelf for months on end, you will notice that oxidisation which can cause blemishes. So I strongly advise using just a very small amount of Brasso from time to time to bring it back up good as new.

But don’t go too mad as you can actually damage brass if you go too far – I learnt that from my Bugle playing days!

Mech Mod Safety

If you’ve never owned or used an unregulated device like a mechanical mod of any description, its important to understand the dangers of it.

What we’re dealing with are batteries that have a huge discharge current, capable of putting out high current.

Now remember, the current is the flow of electricity. The discharge current on the Samsung 30T is 35Amps, which is a little more than the usual socket circuit in your home.

And generally, people are using between 30 and 70Amps at any one time in their home.

So if you’re looking at picking up a ‘Mech Mod’ – First thing I suggest would be to spend some time understanding how it all works, as in, why everyone suggests you understand Ohms Law and why battery safety is important.

In simple terms, if you had a water pipe with a cap on the end, and put water through the pipe, eventually the pressure will build up so much, that either the cap would fly off, or the pipe would crack and water would go everywhere.

Same rules apply to batteries, and the build you install in your RDA/RTA – The only difference is, the cap on a battery can explode and cause more than just a flooded garden.

A regulated device limits the output to a safe level of the device, and will also protect you from a short circuit and overheating along with a number of other potentially dangerous events.

But none of that safety protection is there with a mechanical mod.

I also suggest you look up Battery Mooch on YouTube or check out his Facebook page.

He’s basically the Guru when it comes to batteries, safety and what batteries work best for which mod.

He also openly calls out manufacturers for stating wrong ratings on batteries.

Pros

• Absolutely stunning piece
• Can take 3 different battery sizes
• Hits really well
• Nice button throw
• No battery rattle
• Solid construction
• A talking point

Cons

• Unusual design
• Not exactly a comfortable mod
• No information in the box
• Very expensive
• Only a number of RTA/RDA’s will suit it

Final Review Verdict

I’m not exactly sure who will be rushing out to buy the Pharaoh mech mod because its such a niche item.

But quite frankly, its absolutely stunning and as weird and obscure as it is, it’s been a joy to use and appreciate.

I’m no expert with either Ancient Egypt, or craftsmanship – But I’m pretty sure this is a collector’s item through and through.

It is absolutely stunning from every angle.

Did you buy the Pharaoh by One Top? Or have you seen it? Let us know what you think in the comments below.

The post Pharaoh Mechanical Mod By One Top Review | More Powerful Than a Rameses? appeared first on Ecigclick.

On first look, the mechanical mod is a simple, clean design with the Vaping Bogan’s skull and cross sitting front and centre. A 21700, 20700 and 18650 battery can be used with this kit.

I should mention right now, before we go any further that an unregulated device of any sorts should not be used with the correct knowledge. You will need to know about Ohm’s law, voltage and battery safety. In the wrong hands and no prior knowledge, an unregulated device can cause serious harm.

I received the Vandy Vape Bonza kit in Stainless Steel. At this moment of writing, the kit comes in two colours, Stainless Steel and Copper Wrinkle Painted Black.

As always, the Vandy Vape Bonza kit was sent to me for review. As always, I will give you my own, honest opinion of this product after a lengthy testing period.

Check Out The Vandy Vape Bonza Kit in Action

What’s in the Box?

• 1 x Vandy Vape Bonza Mechanical Mod
• 1 x Vandy Vape v1.5 Bonza RDA
• 1 x 18650 Battery Adapter
• 1 x Set of Spare Magnets
• 1 x Spring for the button
• RDA Spare Parts
• Warning Card
• Warranty Card

Features

Bonza Mechanical Tube

• Product Size: 5 x 27mm
• Hybrid 510 Connection
• Batteries: 21700, 20700 or 18650 with adapter (Batteries not included)
• Mechanical Unregulated Mod
• Magnetic or Spring Button Mechanism
• Low Voltage Drop (Manufacturer Quote)
• Interchangeable Sleeve
• Safety Insulated Tube

Bonza 1.5 RDA

• Height: 25.5mm (Without Drip Tip)
• Diameter: 24mm
• Clamp Style Dual Post Deck
• Adjustable Side Airflow
• Squonk Pin Included
• Gold Plated 510 pin

Design and Build Quality

When I heard I was going to receive the Vandy Vape Bonza Kit for review, I was thrilled, I had really been looking forward to the Bonza kit coming out and to receive it for review was fantastic.

Once the box is opened and you take the kit from the box, the overall looks and feel of the kit is very good indeed, attaching the Bonza V1.5 RDA to the top of the Mechanical Mod sets it up for a very good looking device indeed, BUT….

When the tube was taken apart, I found that the threads on the bottom section were very sharp indeed, so sharp that I managed to cut myself!

Inserting a battery and putting a build into the RDA, e liquid onto the cotton and away we go. Uhm, that’s not good.

The switch with the magnets in feels very stiff to press. The switch overall (in my opinion) is badly designed as it has to be pressed exactly in the centre, anywhere off centre and you have a 50/50 chance of it working or just sticking.

Onto the button with the spring inserted, surely this couldn’t be as bad as with the magnets?

When the spring is used instead of the magnets, it seems a little easier to press, not much, but a little. You really do need fingers like Hafþór Júlíus Björnsson (Worlds Strongest Man) to press it.

The Bonza 1.5 RDA is well designed, the finish on it is done very well without any sharp protruding parts at all. My only one fault with the RDA was that once the top cap was removed, there was some sort or grease residue around where the o-rings sat on the bottom of the RDA.

Bonza V1.5 RDA

Anyone who had the original Bonza RDA will tell you that it was a great RDA, good airflow with excellent flavour. What more could they do to make it better?

One thing you will find instantly when taking apart the Bonza V1.5 RDA is the tolerances on the o-rings. The original Bonza would sometimes need a wrench to take the top cap off, thankfully, with the 1.5, everything moves and comes apart as you would expect.

When you want to adjust the airflow, instead of the airflow being closed off from the side and across, you now find it is closed off from top to bottom.

My ideal airflow setting on the Bonza 1.5 was to have the top row closed off and having my coil placement allowing the air coming in to hit the bottom and centre of the coils allowing for better flavour production.

The juice well on the Bonza 1.5 is very big indeed making it very hard to over drip.

The deck is a beefed up version of the original and is a dual post, clamp style deck with plenty of room to put a big coil build in there if you so wished.

Vapour production, if that’s your bag, is excellent as is the flavour.

My time spent using this RDA has been a pleasure. I was a huge fan of the original Bonza RDA and I find the subtle changes on the Bonza 1.5 make it all the more pleasurable to use. The Bonza 1.5 certainly had a lot to live up to, it has and exceeded it.

The RDA comes in five colours, Matte Black, Stainless Steel, Gun Metal, Rainbow and Copper Wrinkle Painted Black.

Bonza Mechanical Tube

The Bonza Mech looks very nice out of the box with a very interesting design incorporating the interchangeable sleeve. I for one suffer terribly with OCD so it very refreshing indeed when I can align the Skull and Cross Mechs with that on the RDA so it all becomes aligned.

I am also led to believe you will be able to buy these separately in the future, so, if you wish, you can change them out to a different colour of your choice. The design is very nice and sleek looking with the outside of the tube having a good finish to it. It’s not until you delve deeper when you find the problems I mentioned earlier.

There is four battery venting slots towards the bottom of the tube allowing for good battery venting. You will also find the tube is very well insulated. There are insulator rings both top and bottom and an insulator tube running the full length of the tube.

The Bonza Mech is fired with the button on the bottom where you can use the pre installed magnets or use the silver spring that is also included with the kit.

How does the Vandy Vape Bonza Kit Perform?

Well, this is a bit of a difficult one for me. When the Mech fired, it performed very well but getting it to fire because of the way the button is designed became very frustrating indeed.

I used a pair of Alien Coils at 0.1 ohm so when the Mech fired it hit hard and had great performance. I am no expert on voltage drop but I didn’t notice any significant drop.
However, Vandy Vape do say that the tube is designed for low voltage drop.

Flavour and Vapour Production

The flavour produced from the Bonza 1.5 is excellent. Vandy Vape already had a top performer with the original Bonza but a few tweaks here and there have certainly made it a very flavoursome RDA indeed.

As for vapour production, the Bonza 1.5 can certainly keep up there with the best.

Pro’s

• Excellent build for the Bonza 1.5 RDA
• Excellent Flavour
• Clean, well designed Mech Tube on the outside
• Very good insulators
• Good battery venting

Cons

• For me, the fire button is terrible
• Sharp threads on the inside of the Mech Tube

My Final Thoughts

The Vandy Vape Bonza kit could be great, it really could, but in my opinion the design of the button, which is one of, if not the most important parts of a Mechanical Tube, should and must be better. The sheer pressure needed to press the button to fire is huge. Unless the button is pressed dead centre, more often than not, the button will stick.

I did think I was having a nightmare and took the Bonza Mechanical Tube to my local store. The store owner is a Mechanical Mod freak and owns a wheelbarrow full. He confirmed to me that I wasn’t going mad and it was all true. A bit of a relief.

The only saving light for me from the Bonza kit is the Bonza V1.5. Very well done in making an already great RDA even better.

The post Vandy Vape Bonza Kit Review – Excitement Followed by Disappointment appeared first on Ecigclick.

This time around, they’re hitting us with the second version of their Karma mechanical mod kit, the Karma 2, complete with Tsunami Pro RDA, which I was pretty pumped to try!

The original Tsunami RDA was my first ever RDA and it’s pretty nostalgic for me but that didn’t stop me from finding issue with the Tsunami Pro.

I’ve been a reviewer for coming on 2 years now and I’ve been vaping for much longer. I own one mech but don’t use it much as the switch is a little too tight for me and can’t be adjusted. I finally managed to convince our long-suffering admin here at Ecigclick to let me have a go at a mech for review and I had my eyes open for precautions and decent instructions in the packaging for those newer to mech mods…

Read on to see how I got on with the Karma 2 20700 Mech kit, as a new mech user and as a reviewer!

What’s In The Box

• 1 x Karma 2 Hybrid Mech Mod
• 1 x Tsunami Pro RDA
• 1 x 18650 Adaptor
• 1 x Extra firing spring
• BF Pin for the Tsunami Pro
• 510 Drip tip adaptor
• Screws, O-rings and Allen Key

Features Karma 2

• 91mm x 25mm
• Hybrid 510 connection
• 18650, 20700 or 21700 compatible
• Copper construction
• Smooth magnetic switch for minimal friction
• Bottom placed battery vents
• Available in copper and black
• 216g with RDA and 18650 installed

Features Tsunami Pro

• Large, single or dual, velocity style build deck
• Bottom adjustable airflow
• 8mm Juice well
• 12 mm drip tip
• 36mm height without thread and tip
• 810 Drip tip plus 510 adaptor
• BF pin included

Build Quality & Design

Karma 2 Mech Mod

The Karma 2 Kit arrives in a super neat, black and orange box package, with the Tsunami Pro already installed on the Karma 2.

The overall look is really, really solid and sexy, although the matte black finish (yes, I got the black version) does give this kit a very industrial look.

The colour is well and properly locked on, I’ve even attempted to get a scratch in it but any scratch that forms just wipes away with a cloth, it’s like some miracle coating.

The finish is matte enough to provide grip but the grooves, cut in lines that wrap diagonally around the mod, take even further care of that, the Karma 2 won’t slip out of your hand easily, in spite of what I soon find out…

Lifting out the kit, it has a hefty weight to it, 160g without a cell (including the RDA), which is obviously thanks to its solid copper construction.

Starting at the bottom there’s a neat switch, copper-framed and finished with a glossy, carbon fibre look sticker that’s smooth to the touch. The switch is magnetized and machined to have a nice light spring to it…the magnet obviously allows for a light spring that takes with minimal friction.

The spring loading has a throw of roughly 2.5 mm and I’ve experienced absolutely no catching, just the right amount of give.

The threading between the switch/base and the mod is really decent, no effort at all to screw in or unscrew, really smooth machining there.

Also, the switch, on the inside, is surrounded by a protruding delrin ring, which stops the battery from rattling and also serves as insulation.

Just above the base are 5 venting holes, at intervals around the circumference of the tube.

Unscrewing the base and switch I discover a battery chamber that’s been insulated with a tube of delrin / plastic that’s fixed to the mod to help prevent shorts…a nice, safe touch.

I was troubled to find that the instruction manual didn’t even provide info on battery safety or how to insert your battery into this mod.

Because the battery vents are at the bottom, I went with a positive down install.

Worse yet, not so much as a line of text in the manual to highlight the dangers of using a hybrid connection, the how to’s and the warnings. Keep in mind, you should only use this with an RDA that has a pin which protrudes more than 1mm. Also try not to use it with sub-ohm tanks at all, as a fixed 510 should be avoided.

It would have been so simple for Geekvape to include an actual user manual that tells users HOW TO use this device, instead, all I have is a breakdown of parts in various languages. It may go without saying that this is a device for advanced users (which it is) but it doesn’t take much to include more information. I sure hope no one has an accident as a result of Geekvape’s neglect in this instance.

Tsunami Pro RDA

What a nice looking RDA, simple as can be, a matte black finished tube that matches the mech to a tee, drip tip and top cap in one with a stepped taper and a seriously ample 810 opening.

The top cap comes off super easy, with the help of a single, well fitted o-ring.

At the bottom of the barrel there is a neat, cursive Tsunami brand, along with two 8 x 3mm airflow slots, adjustable, in the cyclops style. There’s also a third slot for when you do a single coil build, this slot will remain closed otherwise.

Removing the barrel to reveal the deck, I discover a dual post, velocity style deck, with ample terminals for even the beefiest coils.

The deck is incredibly spacious and the base, massive…a full 12 mm deep, with an 8mm deep juice well.

The trouble I see here is this bottom airflow, while the positioning of the airflow makes for serious flavour, with two holes opening into one side slot, directly under the intended placement for either coil…keeping juice from flowing into these holes is going to be tricky, I can see it already.

Accessories

The provided 510 tip adaptor is a strange thing, as it does away with your ‘topcap’ taper and leaves you with a flat topcap and a stunted internal airflow.

Otherwise, the 18650 adaptor works a charm and all the other necessaries, such as an extra fire spring and various bits and bobs, are all much appreciated.

No coils or cotton are included.

How Does The Geekvape Karma 2 Kit Perform?

After my stiff-switch experiences of the past, this Karma 2 is a godsend. I’ve had absolutely no issues with the switch whatsoever, it has just the right amount of give for a satisfying fire, without being so light thrown that it’ll fire accidentally in your pocket.

I experienced no rattle with any of the compatible battery types and tried it out with an 18650 (using the adaptor), a 20700 and a 21700.

I appreciate the weight of the device, as it stands up really sturdy when you place it on a table.

The grip texturing is also really effective and, all in all, the Karma 2 mech is a pleasure to use.

Now…as you know, this is my first experience reviewing a tube mech but I’ve certainly got loads of experience with other vape mods and tanks of every kind…yet, when it comes to a mech I feel it either hits like hell or it doesn’t.

This thing hits like a mofo. That’s really all there is to it. The Karma 2 mech is flawless, in my opinion, a real badass.

As for the Tsunami Pro…This RDA is a flavour and cloud beast, with no spit-back and an airflow that’s perfectly placed to create a slightly restricted but beautifully flavoursome and smooth feeling draw.

The issue I have is that almost every time I drip I land up with liquid leaking out of those AIRFLOW SLOTS.

I now know why it’s called the Tsunami, thanks to the waves of warm and delicious liquid that flow from it whenever I tilt my mech or drip onto the coils.

How To Fill

• Drip through the tip

Ease of build

In spite of the space taken up by the raised airflow holes, which are situated beneath your coils…the build deck is spacious and a real breeze to use.

As you can see from my pics, I was able to load a really well spaced build on this and has no issue with the coils touching sides.

The screws are easy to access and the threading really solid.

One thing that the airflow does get in the way of is wicking space, you have to take a small screwdriver to get those wicks tucked in, especially if you lay a high-wrap, spaced build like mine.

Had these airflow holes been cut to sit at an angle below the coils, it may have prevented liquid from running around the coils and straight down into them.

I spend half my life wiping massive juice spills off my mech but still like to use the Tsunami Pro as it really hits beastily and the flavour is solid AF.

Battery Life

Battery life varies depending on battery and build spec but is considerably better than you’d ever experience on a regulated mod, firing at the same capacity.

Pros

• Easy, magnetized switch, never fails
• Deltrin ring prevents battery rattle and insulated
• Insulated battery chamber for added safety
• Great handfeel with good grip and high quality paint finish
• Outstanding flavour and cloud on the Tsunami Pro
• Super good machining and threading all round

Cons

• Serious leaking through the Tsunami Pro’s bottom airflow

Final Review Verdict

I’ve got to say, the Karma 2 mech is a real keeper, a pleasure to use with a flawless magnetic switch, as well as an awesome look and hand-feel. I feel the same about the RDA but unfortunately there is a big issue with leaking on the Tsunami Pro.

I would recommend this kit, only for experienced vapers who have a thorough grasp of battery safety and Ohm’s law, as an awesome mechanical option to add to your collection.

It’s affordable but really solid and sexy.

And..

Would I buy the Geekvape karma 2 kit if I lost/broke the device? Most Likely

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